Skerry Build in Port Orchard WA

Hello,

 

I am getting ready to start my Skerry build and I have some questions about notes I wrote myself in the instructions.

1) Is it beneficial to apply epoxy to the bulkheads and seats prior to installing them in the boat, or will this impact the ability of the fillits to hold?

2) Is it easier (less likely to make a mistake) to cut the slot for the dagger board prior to installing the trunk? What about cutting the slot prior to stitching together the hull?

3) Is it easier/more accurate to mark the centerline of the hull for the skeg prior to stitching together the hull and adding a third dimension?

4) One step says to use a sander to round exposed edges of the frames prior to coating with epoxy. Can I use a router for this prior to installing the frames as it should give a more consistent shape?

This is my first build, and this forum has been very helpful.  Thanks in advance for all your help.

Sam

 

 


1 reply:

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RE: Skerry Build in Port Orchard WA

   Welcome to the club Sam!  There are a lot of participants on this forum with much more knowledge and experience than me, but I'll start.  I'm in the final stages of my first Skerry/boat build.

1)  It's easy enough to apply epoxy to the bulkheads after installation and the fillets may theoretically bond a little better to bare wood.  You pretty much have to apply epoxy to the underside, at least, of the bow and stern seat as you do not have access to that side after installation.  I went ahead and did both sides of all three seats prior.

2) If you have a router, it is very easy to cut the daggerboard slot after installation of the trunk and, I'm sure, more accurate.  After the trunk is installed, use a small drill bit on a long extension to drill a hole in the hull from the top side through the daggerboard trunk.  This ensures you are correctly oriented.  Then from the outside, enlarge the hole and use a flush trim bit with a roller bearing to cut out the slot.  After that, go around again with a roundover bit, if desired.

3) The center-line could change slightly as the hull comes together.  It was very easy to mark it at the time suggested in the directions.  I used a chalk line and it seemed to work well.

4) I rounded over all the exposed bulkhead edges with a router before installation.  It was fast and easy and they look good.

Keep us informed about your progress.

Hooper Williams - Brevard, NC

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