Chesapeake double

My daughter and I built a Chesie double 10 years ago and its become a bit forlorn.  My winter project is bringing her back to life.

I have a bum shoulder and its too heavy to lift. 

I want to break it into sections like the Shearwater.

Anybody tackled that?  Any ideas? 

Thanks!


5 replies:

« Previous Post       List of Posts       Next Post »

RE: Chesapeake double

I'm sure it could be done.   The problems would come from  getting the bulkheads doubled and the right amount apart to let you cut between them. If you cut and then add bulkhead, the pannels would try to spring back rather than keeping the curve, making for flat spots.

If you can reach in with a dremmel tool and remove the fillet on one side of the existing bulkhead. then fit a new bulkhead flat against the first one. Cover the side of the bulkhead with plastic (maybe contact paper) so it doesn't get glued to the other one. Perhaps put a couple of cardboard spacers to hold them apart by the saw blade width, and then glue it in.  You also have to reinforce the bulkhead (look at drawings or shop pictures of the sheerwater take apart for details.) to take the pressure of the big nuts.  

To minimize weight per section you also need a bulkhead between the two cockpits to  make 4 sections.  How much stresswould be created such a long boat with two bodies in the middle would create when the waves lift bow and stern.  A seam in the middle (if you try to make a 4 part) might not be able to hold up to the pressure.

Sorry but this is sort of a run on thought process post.

For ease of access, you could make only a 2 part with the division between cockpits. There you could at least reach both sides relatively easily. Since there is no bulkhead there to start with.  Check to make sure there is foot room for the back seater behind the new bulkhead.

Ed

 

 

Would be an interesting project.  

 

 

 

RE: Chesapeake double

If.........when..........I have a bad shoulder I'll likely look at how it is stored,  transported, loaded, moved to the water, etc before I'd cut it in pieces.    Because if I have a bad shoulder I'd wonder how I was going to paddle it, roll it, operate it, and/or do the modifications. However it is a double and Mrs Grumpy is a power paddler with good lifting capability. I could rudder a lot.

What is it that you want to overcome with dividing the boat?

The lower mount of a kayak trailer is easier than lifting to the roof. A kayak cart makes moving it to the water easier. An electric winch system makes it easier to hoist up to the ceiling for storage.   

 

 

 

 

 

RE: Chesapeake double

Thanks for both sets of advice.  I really appreciate it.

I can paddle fine, just can't hold a lot of weight over my head anymore and it's become a one man lift as Mrs. POQ can't lift it higher.  The Chesie is too long for my garage and shed so it stays outside.

I've thought of a trailer .  Same storage problem with it.   What I don't want to do is destroy it, but do want it to be more useable. 

First thing I need to do is determine how much rot is in it and how deteriorated the epoxy and glass are.  That's likely going to drive my decision.  I have a lot to think about. 

I'll let you know how it goes.

Thanks!  Dave

RE: Chesapeake double

   1.  In many respects I feel your pain. Personally I notice how a light weight boat is usually twice the weight after a paddle as before. My suspician is it might not be a problem with the kayak.

2. Yakama has a neat trailer that folds up for storage.

3. Make a modular kayak?.....Why not.  The decision would be three or two pieces. Obiviously you'll need bulkheads...and adding bulkheads at other bulkheads would be a good thing. Either way it would seem that you'd need to brace the original bulkheads for more point load stress at the attach points. 

4. The relaxing of the deck curves.........This was mentioned in the above comments. I would solve this by building a mortise and tennon frame that would fit around the section of boat just foward of the point you intend to cut/install the new bulkhead. Think similar to the "halo frame" medical personall use for broken necks. Instead of set screws into the skull we'd be installing machine screws with washers and nuts to spread out the loads through the hull to the frame. I suggest a combination of standard washers and fender washers. The purpose is to put the adjustable through bolt screws in tension. To keep the convex curves in place.  Each screw of course would need to have nuts and washers on the outside frame. Tension on the frame would have to be on the center axis of the frame to avoid twisting and alignment problems. CC of the screws would be determined by the radius of the curve. More curve = more screws............straight sides less. Once you have the frame installed cutting the hull just forward of the wire holes for the existing  bulkhead should not be a problem. Copy the existing bulkhead after the boat is seperate. This should be easier than trying to fit a bulkhead through the confines of the compartment.

4. new bulkhead joint..............I don't know how they do that but it seems like some type of bolt pattern, keyway, male/female plug design is needed to alighn up the hull and provide strength.

5. I wish I had the picture, but I live in the south. In South Georgia, where many of my exlaws and outlaws are from, people used to have fishin' cars. They are modified for specific tasks.  One such older car had 2x4 ways installed from the rear bumper over the trunk lid, up onto the roof and overhanging the hood. There was a winch on the front of the ways. The fisherman would stand on the hood and winch his jon boat up the ways then tie it down to the roof. This would be a redneck creative way ......... ;-)

DP..

 

 

RE: Chesapeake double

 

 

   Grumpy  all great ideas!  I used to have an old beater station wagon for just this reason but had to get rid of it in a cross country move   I like the halo idea a lot  thanks!

 

 

« Previous Post     List of Posts     Next Post »


Please login or register to post a reply.