Allowable Spring-Back in the Stems?

Hello,

I am a first time builder and I am building the Freedom 17 from Bear Mtn. This is a faster tripping boat and the bow and stern are fairly vertical with the bend radius tight compared to other models. I steam bent ash for the inner/outer stems and after they are set up and glued they "spring back" about 1 1/2 or 2 inches off of either end of the stem mold. I can close the gap but it takes pretty good hand pressure. Should they conform exactly to the mold or is some spring expected? How much is too much?

Thanks.


6 replies:

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RE: Allowable Spring-Back in the Stems?

   Anthony it's typical for steam-bent (or glue-lam for that matter) to have spring-back once the completed part is released from whatever clamping/securing pressure is used in its fabrication. The thickness and (relative to other species) stiffness of the individual elements determines how much there'll be, as well as the shape desired.

Were I in your position I'd take what I got off the first attempt, estimate how much spring-back to allow for when building a new temporary form against which I'd form stem #2. 

This way the resulting part(s) will have the desired shape and strength while not having added built-in stresses trying to keep a 'sprung-fitted' stem under control. There may be times when such stress is a desired trait but I don't think your situation is one of them.

 

 

 

 

RE: Allowable Spring-Back in the Stems?

Anthony,

Just out of curiousity, why did you post that question here instead of the Bear Mountain builders' forum?  Please don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to chase you away or anything, but I would have thought that their forum would have more info about their boats. Or are the people here more knowledgeable? :-)

Again, just personal curiousity. Good luck with your build,

Laszlo

 

 

 

RE: Allowable Spring-Back in the Stems?

Laszlo your question crossed my mind too when I first read Anthony's post but as I'd never heard of Bear Mountain Boats before I took it as a gift... repaid with my opinion on his next course of action, based on my experiences with building boats (slim) & glue-lam furniture (more extensive).

http://buildersforum.bearmountainboats.com/

Sometimes the signs are there to help you along the way when you least expect to find them.

 

RE: Allowable Spring-Back in the Stems?

Yes, it's always good when a new person shows up, I was just curious about the journey. Good answer to his question, BTW.

Laszlo

 

RE: Allowable Spring-Back in the Stems?

   Sorry for the delay.First I wanted to speak about the initial problem and say that I followed SPCLARK's advice. I built a second mold by pivoting the original mold around the point of the convex and traced out a modified mold. I made the stems on the modified mold and they fit the original mold perfectly. Thanks for the answer. I will add that the original stems only sprung back about 3/8" on each end and not the larger measurement that I imagined at work when I posted the question. I decided to remake them as much for the learning curve (pun intended) as for a structural concern.

Secondly, I ordered my strips from CLC and was looking at information on scarfing them on the CLC forum when I decided to post the question. That is the only reason I posted here. I don't have an opinion on one being better than the other but there is certainly a higher variety of boats discussed on CLC. Thanks.

RE: Allowable Spring-Back in the Stems?

 I've always felt that our ultimate purpose here (in life) is to help one another along the way. Sharing experiences serves both to teach as well as offer opportunities to learn for those who participate.

Glad to hear my suggestion brought you to the solution you were seeking. The more frequently you cold-mold shapes the better you'll get at anticipating how much the molds need 'adjusting' to fit the designs. 

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