Painters on the Sassafras Canoe

I don't see anything about painters in the plans.  Have any of you attached painters?  How do you do it and avoid compromising the end tanks?  Thanks

8 replies:

« Previous Post       List of Posts       Next Post »

RE: Painters on the Sassafras Canoe

Select a piece of PVC or brass pipe, depending on the look you want, with an inside diameter the size you want the hole to be and drill a hole in the topsides about one and one half to two inches from the bow the diameter of the outside of the pipe. Epoxy the pipe in the hole through the bow and cut it off flush with the outside of the hull. Fair it, glass over it, carefully remove the glass from over the inside of the pipe and you have a hole (tube) that you can run your painter through and still maintain the water tightness of your end tank. White PVC will take epoxy and finish about the same color as white cedar and brass will still look like brass under epoxy. SEEYA Jack

RE: Painters on the Sassafras Canoe

Not a good photo but you might get the idea. I used a U shaped fitting ,I think it is called a saddle, bolted to the deck.

RE: Painters on the Sassafras Canoe

Try the pic again

RE: Painters on the Sassafras Canoe


Also known as a padeye, available in bronze here . Nice boat, Drifter. I like the stripes on the bow. They work very well with the inwhale.


RE: Painters on the Sassafras Canoe

I went with a hole for a painter instead of a pad eye or a cleat because I envisioned pushing and pulling the upside-down boat off a car's roof rack by myself and I was afraid they would catch on something or have an unfortunate meeting with the roof itself.  If I wasn't going to be roof-racking I would have gone with a pad eye or an eyebolt through the deck. 

I also thought a hole for a painter would aid in trailering, and I really didn't want to stick an eyebolt out the front of my boat.

I like Jack's suggestion of fiberglassing in a section of pipe.  I used a method that is the inverse of Jack's.  

I tested to be sure that woodflour-thickened epoxy didn't bond to an HDPE dowel.  It doesn't bond to it like glue, but epoxy can get a grip onto the plastic halfway decently if the HDPE isn't truly smooth.  Fortunately only halfway decently: I could still get the cured epoxy off without too much effort though.

I drilled a series of progressively larger holes through the bow, going from 1/8" up to 3/4" diam.  It helps to have another pair of eyes when you do this so you can drill square to the boat in the horizontal and the vertical dimensions.  As the drill bits got larger I found that a spade bit didn't work because of the severe angling at the prow.  I borrowed a solid 1/2" bit and bought a solid 3/4" bit and they worked fine.

After the hole was drilled I placed a 3/4" HDPE dowel through, then wood flour epoxied all around it inside the boat.  When the epoxy cured, I banged out the dowel with a rubber mallet.  Don't put the dowel far through the hole.  I'd say you want to only have an inch or two sticking out, otherwise when you hit it with the mallet it will flex.  The less you put through, the less you have to extract as well.  However, leave plenty of dowel on the opposite side of the boat so you have something to grab onto because you might need to apply a little elbow grease.  I put a screw through it so I could twist the dowel in the hole.

Another coat of unthickened epoxy makes sure of a seal and picks up the exposed edges of the plywood.  It made a nice, smooth, epoxy sealed hole for a 1/2" diam rope.

In the on-water pic the boat is still a few steps from done (e.g. the front deck isn't on and much finishing to do), but I really needed to get out with it once before the weather closed in for the year.




RE: Painters on the Sassafras Canoe

I built a sass 14 10 years ago..I treated it like a kayak.. end pour with a grab out awesome in holding the boat on the car as well as a place to hold when landing the boat

RE: Painters on the Sassafras Canoe

Sass 16' here. I agree with all the suggestions above. I went with a padeye installed as Laszlo and Drifter describe, but I think the through-hole is a great idea too (particularly if you have to haul the boat  through shallows, the lower the haul-point, the stabler the pull).

If you go the padeye route, just remember the golden rule: drill-fill-drill.


« Previous Post     List of Posts     Next Post »

Please login or register to post a reply.


Special Financing with Blispay

 CLC's Fall Kit Sale