chester,

fwiw, my experience with the primer (have used it on painted boats), was not what i had intuitively expected.

it is not like a primer for wood or a house paint when used in conjunction with glass boat building.

without respect to the 'dry time issue', the primer is incredibly soft and easy to scratch.  what i did not realize until having worked with it and undestood the approach better, is that the expectation is that almost all of it is sanded off and it is really used to fill little pinholes and small imperfections that otherwise are easily highlighted by a gloss solid paint.

if you have any sections that are showing substantially white, any paint applied over it will be very fragile becuase you would be putting it on a substrate of what is effectively chalk or talcum powder.

when i was done and using it properly. i litterally sanded away 99% or more...and like i said, you would only see little flecks of it filling pinholes and other minor imperfections....but when i applied the paint, i had a fantasitic finish.

in light of that experience i was clearly over-agressive in my application thinking i was going to almost use it like a fairing coat or traditional paint primer....which it is not.

that said, i too filled up a lot of paper removing most of it.

i can't really tell if you have a 'drying' problem or not.  but most of it should be coming off anyway.

     Thanks, I was doing just as you said: thinking like I was painting a car or airplane. I understand wanout sanding most of the primer off, but that begs the question of adhesion of the topcoat. I was taught that primer sticks to structure and that paint sticks to primer, if I sand off most of the primer will the topcoat stick to the epoxy?

no issue with the top coat sticking to properly prepared epoxy (cured, abraded with 120 grit sandpaper, and clean).

am attaching a link to the intelux sight.  yes...very different than a car/airplane primer in terms of my experience http://www.yachtpaint.com/LiteratureCentre/pre-kote-info-usa-eng.pdf

as i mentioned earlier, what is interesting in my experience is just how thin and showing of minor defects the top coat is.  i thought i had a smooth surface.  was not happy with the result when i painted it with the top coat...lot of imperfections the paint picked up that my hand did not when i assessed the smoothness of the glass.  anyway, sanded it down,  used the primer and then sanded again to the point it appeared to have sanded almost all of it off.  felt the same to the hand....but a substantially different/better result when the top coat went on.  folks thought i had actually sprayed the boat....but it was brush painted.

as i mentioned before, i can see that the primer is filling these vary minor iregularities that otherwise are highlighted by the top coat.

howard

I will be taking a class at CLC and am looking ahead to the finishing process.  I read alot about how brushing the Interlux top coat is almost like spraying.  Does anyone have any experience with spraying?  Is it a good method of application?  Any viscosity, setting, tip information would be great.   

Jack

   Chester, Yall...did your putty like spots finally dry?  Did you find out what caused it?  

The can says sand in 16 hours and the fact sheet from the link Howard sent above indicates, depending on temperature, it could be even less, so I'm asking  because I surely want to do whatever I need to do so mine is sandable in 16 hours like the can says!

Curt 830/997-8120 [email protected]