It's hard for me to gauge just how far off things are, but I'm inclined to worry about the possible crooked nose.

I'd avoid removing material at all costs. The overhang on one side comes with an equal and opposite shortage on the other, and I worry that such changes could really distort the nose.

Why not try to wire the nose to the frame first, ensuring that it's straight relative to the rails. A little discrepancy in the aft end might be easier to absorb/hide. If you really need to turn back the hands of time, plenty of folks report success with separating epoxied parts using heat.

Good luck- the Kaholo is really fun!

Patrick

I was able to wire up the nose and it looks good, all holes lined up reasonably well. The overhang is about 2 inches on the stern tapering to flush about a foot aft of where the bow and stern panels join. 

The plan is to paint the bottom and sides so it'll be relatively easy to hide the fill in piece(s).

Sean

I ended up doing what I was planning on. It worked OK, wasn't a perfect fit but I am happy with it. On this build I am not striving for perfection, just a decent looking usable boat thats ready to go by paddling season in New England.