The cut out in the transom is cosmetic, originally it would hold a sculling oar, but today's version is far too small to actually hold a useable oar. My Chester Yawl has one too.

Actually, you're probably refering to the oval (more or less) cut out in the inboard piece, not the sculling notch. That piece is mainly for aesthetics. The outer piece is to give strength to the transom and give a glueing surface for the sides. Might as well show those kids how a router works! Looking forward to updates. 

George K

Thanks George,

The oval cutout is what I was referring to.  If there's one thing a Woodshop teacher learns its how to fix mistakes  as there's no end to it, so we'll get it out cleanly I hope, or fill it with a thinner veneer of something.

Leaving the cutout in place presents no problem, and it will only strengthen the stern, especially where the bolts go thru for the lower rudder gudgeon.  My recollection is that there is probably a router slot around the perimeter that you'll have to fill with thickened epoxy.  Far easier doing this than trying to rout out the insert.

All fixed.........  Really pretty easy to do as we hadn't stitched it in yet so I could work on it flat on a bench.  Plunge routers are great as you can dial in the depth fairly precisely.  Just a little sanding afterwards.

Thanks for the help .

Just went out and looked at my NE Dory transom, it does have a slot around the "oval" area most of the way around.   Because the CLC NE Dory does not have a kick up rudder, wouldnt it be wise to make the gudgeon areas as strong as possible?   Quarter inch mounting can easily become half inch by epoxying the oval onto the transom eh?

Could even fill the groove with epoxy and wood flour for looks.

Any reason not to do that?

Thoughts?

Curt

 " The cut out in the transom is cosmetic, originally it would hold a sculling oar, but today's version is far too small to actually hold a useable oar."

Is this true? I plan to build a dory soon.  It seems like it would be a good option to have. If the existing sculling hole is too small then how large of a hole would be required to be functional for sculling?  And would it work structurally on this transom?

Appreciate any input.

 I would suggest that you aquire your sculling oar first then make the cutout to fit.....

Just measured parts...building now:

8' Spoon oars from CLC shank dia = 1-3/4

Dory transom sculling cutout dia = 2-3/4

Dory transom sculling cutout clearance opening dia = 2"

So the CLC spoon oars DO fit in the NW Dory sculling opening.