Repair clc 17kayak

Hi, i've sprung a leak! Seems the very end of the keel line, last inch or two  on the bottom at the stern where ir gets rubbed the most dragging it up rough Maine beaches has worn down thru the 'glass and epoxy to bare wood. Tested it by putting water in the stern end , lifting it uo ,and sure enough water was coming thru! I thought i put extra glass there and epoxy when i built it ( two years ago), but i guess not. Not sure whether i should put more glass over that section, epoxy it, or just extra epoxy. Or is there something else? My canoes have skid plates bow and stern. Hate to add  whatever kayak equivalent there might be, something that may be bulky and ugly. Any suggestions of best repair in this case? Has anyone else had this happen? Thanks!


6 replies:

« Previous Post       List of Posts       Next Post »

RE: Repair clc 17kayak

sounds like you understand the cause......now how do you want to go about fixing it?

my first reaction is that you need to be able to handle the ends getting scraped up.  there are two approaches to skid pads that i think work pretty well and are not bulky or ugly.

the methods are a bit different and relate to how you would approach the repair.

the first method is to flatten down the hull and stern keel line with a rasp or sander (at least 18 inches beyond the the bow and keel notch towards the center of the boat...and some appropriate amount up towards the bow and stern)and create a faired in rub-strip by replacing the material you sanded away with a peanut butter consisitency mix of epoxy, wood flour and cabosil. 

becuase this method is fair to the existing hull, once you build up this skid pad,(should be at least a quarter inch thick) and then sand it fair,  you would then reglass the end with a 4 inch by 24 inch (or whatever it takes to cover the entire repair). 

this method is pretty sturdy.  that being said, I will touch it up every season to make sure i am ready to go for another season with no risk to the hull.

the other approach is a dynel rubstrip.  i have used this technique and done properly, it can look very nice and not bulky.

in this approach, you sand the hull fair and repair with a 4 by 24 inch glass (or whatever it takes to cover the repair).  after the hull is repaired, you would then apply a dynel rubstrip.

clc sells a dynel rub-strip kit and the directions are on-line on the site.  just search on rub-strip and you will find the information and a couple pictures.  if you happy to have dynel cloth and the other material, you can just follow the instructions and save the cost of the kit. 

i am on my second season with a boat that used the dynel approach and have not needed yet to do anything with it.

 

RE: Repair clc 17kayak

Check this out...   http://www.clcboats.com/shop/products/boat-building-supplies-epoxy-fiberglass-plywood/kayak-gear-accessories/kayak-rubstrip-kit.html


RE: Repair clc 17kayak

Check this out...   http://www.clcboats.com/shop/products/boat-building-supplies-epoxy-fiberglass-plywood/kayak-gear-accessories/kayak-rubstrip-kit.html


RE: Repair clc 17kayak

Okay, that didn't work.  use the search option on this site and search for bow and stern rubstrips.

RE: Repair clc 17kayak

Link to rubstrips

RE: Repair clc 17kayak

The abrasion wore completely through the hull? If you put water in the boat and it leaked out, I would address the situation on the inside of the boat as well. The first thing is to make sure the plywood has a good chance to dry out completely. Depending on the situation, I might wet out a strip of glass tape and poke it into place along the keel line as far aft as I could. When that set up I might pour some epoxy back in there to make sure the plywood is all well sealed. When that is done I would work on the outside of the hull, with thickened epoxy, followed by a couple of layers of glass tape. The rub strip kits might be good, I don't know, but they do seem expensive.

Old Yeller 

« Previous Post     List of Posts     Next Post »


Please login or register to post a reply.