Pax 18 float test

Hi everyone. This is my first post although I've been "lurking" a while.

I'm in the process of building a modified Pax 18 (I'm turning it into a surfski and have made some minor changes to bulkhead positions and intended seating position). I'm close to fibreglassing the hull and wonder if I can do a float test after this is done before I add the decks to ensure that everything looks OK. I'm wondering about structural integrity. Also, as the hull will not yet be painted will it do any harm to the epoxy/fibreglass etc?

Any thoughts on this are welcome. Have other people tried doing this?


7 replies:

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RE: Pax 18 float test

Why do you need to do a float test before glassing?

I got my pax20 surfski wet after I glassed the the hull and before I added decks ( bulkheads were in)

I added some temporary decks while I got the cockpit and rudder worked out. These 2 areas provide the most challenges.

Look forward to some images.

Cheers

RE: Pax 18 float test

Thanks for the reply. I figured that it would be my last chance to make any changes to seating position before I completed the cockpit and added decks. I probably don't need to, but with the modifications I have made I'm a bit nervous about it (it's also my first boat build).

I've got the cockpit semi-worked out. I'm going to use a conventional kick-up rudder. This will be for Great Lakes use, there are a number of rocks around here and less surf than on the ocean.

If they are your Pax 20 videos on youtube - thanks! They helped give me the confidence to attempt the conversion.

RE: Pax 18 float test

If I had to do it again I would seriously consider buidling as a kayak with a very large cockpit opening, hump and a bailer. I would then pad out excess cockpit volume with foam.

I probably would have also been better off with an overstern rudder as well. I have my Stellar for open ocean and will most likely only use the Pax for river and Bay.

cheers

RE: Pax 18 float test

I've already built in the cockpit sides - the idea being that in combination with hull and deck they form triangular section "beams" that should help to stiffen up the centre on the boat (I guess the deck and cockpit coamings do this on a standard build).

I like the idea of using foam - I wonder if I could do the seat and hump that way? I could imagine making the whole thing interchangable for other paddlers (and in the process making it a really good personal fit). It would also eliminate what I'm thinking is the trickiest bit of the build if using only wood.

Last question Craig - did you glass the decks? I'm trying to build a boat that is a respectable weight without sacrificing too much strength. Leaving off the glass (except for cockpit area and possibly deck/hull joint) looks do-able, but I really don't have the experience to make that call. The hull glass went on nicely, but there is quite a lot of material used.

RE: Pax 18 float test

The front deck is stripped so it is glassed iside and out with 3oz. I added a ply deck to the rear because I just wanted to get it done (not glassed). Had planned on stripping the back at a later date but decided to run some strips behind the cockpit on top of the ply so that the pattern flowed a bit better. I've added a hatch which is not seen in the pic but the oval where it goes can be seen.

I will eventually finish the project and post pics one day.

[URL=http://s124.photobucket.com/user/CraigMel/media/Pax%2020%20surfski/15072012925.jpg.html][IMG]http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p23/CraigMel/Pax%2020%20surfski/15072012925.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

 

RE: Pax 18 float test

RE: Pax 18 float test

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p23/CraigMel/Pax%2020%20surfski/15072012925.jpg

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