With only one project under my belt, I've never put two complete layers of glass on the bottom of a boat. However, I did put two pieces of glass on the bottom of a boat, overlapped in the middle. There's just one layer except where they overlap. Actually, I ended up with 3 layers down the keel because I added a strip of tape there as well. I don't recall putting a "fill" layer of epoxy on the first piece before overlapping the second one down the keel. A couple of fill layers were added,and then two layers that were a mix of graphite and epoxy. I probably could have done just one fill layer and then the two with graphite mixed in. Before the graphite / epoxy layers, I glued runners on the bottom. I didn't use any screws. I filleted the sides of the runners and then added a strip of tape just on the bottom of the runners. Everything below the waterline has the graphite / epoxy treatment. It was pulled up on sandy and shell beaches many times, and once (at rowing speeds) ran into a barnacle encrusted rock that only just made it to the surface. I wouldn't have seen it if I wasn't facing the other way rowingQ! You can hardly tell that the boat has been used if you look at the bottom.

Is your two layers of glass on the bottom for extra abrasion resistance, or is that what the manual calls for?

If I ever build a power boat, I think it will be the Peeler!

Keith

thanks Keith.  I think the extra sheathing of cloth is mostly to stiffen the bottom up to handle the 15 hp motor in a bit of a chop.  the floor of the bottom has one layer of cloth and is overlapped by about 2 feet down the center line.  It was a little more difficult to saturate the double layers.  That is why I am asking about the bottom which is also overlapped.  So if you laminated two layers you would have four layers on the overlaps.  Not sure if this is how you go about it.  The manual for the Peeler is somewhat pieced together because of the prototype that was built.  the builder decided to add the extra layer of cloth after the first layer and the skids were put on. 

So, I still am questioning the best way to do this.  I have a few days until I tackle this next step!  Bill

I have the same questions as above.  I have put on one layer of glass.  It was difficult getting all air out from under glass and getting glass to lay smoothly at intersections.   I ave had to do a lot of sanding to get it all smooth again.   I have a 9.9  engine.  What difference will the 2nd layer of glass make?  If It is recommended, what is the prep for putting glass on glass?  Is is the same for glass on wood?  

Thank you

Richard - i ended up doing two layers of cloth at the same time.  It came out ok, but had some air along the keel doubler and some lumps and bumps.  Very difficult to keep cloth down.  In the end I am glad I did two lams.  I am going with a 15 HP and am adding a center console.  I think the advantage of two layers is really about stiffness.  I would not be worried about the strength too much, the Peeler bottom is pretty strong with the doubler and the glass floor, not to mention the bulkheads and seats.  And there is always a ton of sanding no matter how good you laminate! 

We have some heavy chop and a lot of boat wake where I live so I want my boat super stiff.  I am using a fairing compound to smooth everything out on the bottom.  Almost ready for the paint!  Been working on her for over a year now!!  Good luck with your build!  Feel free to check in with me anytime.  [email protected]

Bill,   Thank you.  I appreciate the input.  We will go ahead and do the second layer of glass on top of the existing layer which is cured.  I think we will do one side.  Let it dry then do the other.  Where we ran into trouble was having one side on wet, then trying to put on the other...  We  got it pretty good but then just had to walk away..  3m has made a ton on me. 

The other problem I have is that the dog helped tip the epoxy with his tail.  So now I brown fur all over the boat.   The bow has wiskers.   

Next weekend layer #2

Regards

OK... the second layer is on.  Here's the twist.  The kit did not have enough glass to recover both sides overlapping in the center as the first layer.  So we ran one complete panel down the center.  Then we cut the remaining material in half down the middle.  I gave us a nice overlap in the center and then covered over the chine.  So not as specified but better than a single layer.    Putting the panel down the center was much easier than anticipated.  The  two side panels went on nicely as well.   Experience does help. 

What I am interested in is, how much does a  single layer, and then a double layer increase the strength( stiffness) of the wood.   I can find testing done on single layer of glass but not two layers...  So once boat is done I will do a quick test just for fun. 

>>>>What I am interested in is, how much does a  single layer, and then a double layer increase the strength( stiffness) of the wood. >>>

Too many variables to say "it will be X times stronger" with another layer of 6-ounce 'glass.  The difference will be noticeable.  

We tried a couple of different bottoms on the Peeler before settling on the version in the kits and plans.  The first version had a bottom only 9mm thick (!), with two layers of 6-ounce outside and one inside.  This was okay for 8hp or less.  Flexible, but not hazardously so.  That was much too light for 15hp, so we replaced the bottom with 18mm and added extra 'glass as discussed on Page 79 in the manual.  This created an essentially armor-plated bottom.