Almost ready to varnish, I think

Hi,

I took Eric Schade's class a few weeks ago in Annapolis. I learned so much and thoroughly enjoyed working with everyone at CLC. 

I've started to work on my Shearwater in the past four days. (The finishing stuff) I have been epoxying and sanding. There are three coats on the hull and the deck. 

I am wondering if I should go one more round. The deck has some areas although really small that show a weave pattern...the fiberglass. There's a few spots on the hull also. What do you all think? I'm not sure how much I should nickel and dime it. The spots are not well pronounced but you can see them. 

I am also a little curious about the varnishing. I've not varnished anything before. I've read a lot on it but was wondering if anyone had some helpful tips and tricks. It seems that there's a lot of techniques out there and I can't really make heads or tails of it.  I'm guessing at this point I will be doing about three or four coats. 

I've worked hard on this boat...it is my first. I don't want to rush the process but I am anxious to get to the point of installing hardware, the seats, etc. I know...sanding, sanding and more sanding...

Thanks for any info!

Beanie


6 replies:

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RE: Almost ready to varnish, I think

Is the fiberglass weave that is visible buried under the layers of epoxy, or is the visble weave pattern on the surface?

If it is on the surface, additional layers of epoxy needs to be applied.

If the visble fiberglass weave seems to be buried in layers of epoxy, this is caused usually by the buffing action of sanding that heats up the fiberglass thus changing its reflectivity.  (Nothing you can do about it unless you grind out and replace the fiberglass.)  Using dull sandpaper can cause this situation.  I usually change sanding disk every 10 minutes or so.

When varnishing do a minimum of three or four coats.

Good Luck!

 

 

RE: Almost ready to varnish, I think

Good source of information on varnishing is here:

http://www.clcboats.com/shoptips/finishing-tips/varnished_kayak.html

Sanding is fun!

George K

RE: Almost ready to varnish, I think

Just remember that the varnish will not fill/hide anything.  Any imperfection will show up.   First see if you can feel it with your hand.  If you can, then you will see it later.

Secondly, wet out the area with rag and some denatured alcohol.  While it's still wet, look at it from various angels with good light.  It's pretty easy to overcoat any areas that are thin and sand them back down to flush.

And I would do 5 coats of varnish with wet sanding in between.  The extra two coats give you a little more toughness and it makes photo day really shine!

RE: Almost ready to varnish, I think

Dogger54-I've actually got weave below and weave on the surface. I am going to use a foam brush on it for the last coat. Thanks!

George K-thank you for this resource. It is one of the ones that I read. Did lots of sanding today...again..?:)

BankerBob-I didn't know that the varnish wouldn't fill. It makes sense but I am glad you pointed to out! I like the,idea of the denatured alcohol. The hull doesn't need another coat completely so I will follow that path. The deck needs another layer. 

I was thinking of using a foam brush to touch up the hull. I have had an issue from the last coat that is driving me batty. I was really careful with the drips down the side and kept wiping them but there are still drips about 1/2-3/4'inch long. I have hand sanded and used my orbital sander. How neat and perfect do they need to be? I don't want to over do it but want my boat to look good. Also, how does one prevent them?

 

Thanks, everyone! I appreciate your advice. :)

Beanie

RE: Almost ready to varnish, I think

Use a cabinet scraper or other cutting device on drips before, or instead of, resorting to sandpaper.

RE: Almost ready to varnish, I think

I did the same thing in using a chip brush to touch up areas that were low or the weave was showing with epoxy. (and not the whole kayak)  When I have drips of epoxy, I like to use  a cabinet scraper, and remove the drip until its almost flush.  Then I switch to hand sanding or orbiter sanding to elimnate the last visible signs of the drip.  This prevents from sanding a low spot on your hull.

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