To answer your first question if you use the stainless steel bracket the feathercraft rudder pin will drop right in. I'm building a 17lt right now and ordered the bracket because I didnt think the hole drilled in the end pour route would be strong enough for the sailing rudder. I know with the hole in the end pour route they include a plastic piece that the rudder pin slides through and is sandwiched between the rudder and the deck. You then screw this to the deck and if you turn the kayak over the rudder is secure.

I was wondering the same thing about securing the rudder when overturned or transport with the bracket mount. Another thing to keep in mind with the bracket mount the rudder blade is pushed back a couple inches from the stern of the kayak which will effect performance and drag.

I havent installed mine yet and am on the fence trying to weigh all the pros and cons of both installation options. Hopefully someone will way in with more advice. Good luck!

There are different pintles (pins) available on Feathercraft rudders. Long, short, with or without cotter pins. For my installation I drilled into the endpour and pressed in a delrin bushing to prevent wear. It does not show it in the second picture but there is and additional bushing/washer screwed to the deck in front of the rudder block to prevent it from coming out. There is also the bungee keeper to hold the blade in place.

I like the endpour mount as it is clean and does not require any hardware or brackets. It does require some planning and you need to make sure the hole is drilled correctly. The bracket offers conveniece.

Where did you get the bushing you used?   The main reason I was considering the bracket was because I was worried about whether he end  pour would be strong enough.  I honestly hate to drill holes in the deck to install a rudder on it but it came with he kit and I am signifigantly lighter than the reccomended paddler weight for the Chesapeake 18 so I suspect that I wil need it unless I have the boat loaded down with a couple of weeks worth of camping gear.

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Dehager, on your 3rd pic between the rudder base and the deck it looks like you installed the plastic spacer piece that comes with the kit. Is this what your calling a "rudder block"? If you slide the pintle pin through this piece It looks like it could still just slide right out. Maybe another picture of the block assembly? Where did you pick up that bushing? Thanks.

I made the bushing out of delrin (acetal) but you could use a standard nylon bushing from a hardware store. The rudder block is the part that is sandwiched between the sides and held by the three phillips screws. Check out the Feathercraft website for a listing of the different ones available. The plastic spacer sets the angle of the rudder in the lowered position and is what the bushing sits over to lock it in place.

I will post some additional picture for you.

I have a CH18, use the feathercraft rudder and the SS rudder bracket. I too was concerned about the end-pour being strong enough for a sail rig rudder. My 18 is pretty narrow at the stern.

As already stated, the shaft sizes are compatible, but the stock shaft length is not long enough to extend all the way through the bracket for a cotter pin or clip. Feathercraft sells long shafts for these (CLC doesn't sell them). I too was worried about the rudder falling out, so I attached a plastic J-hook using one of the bracket top screws. Then looped a short length of bungee chord through the rudder wings and pull over the J-hook. Works fine and does not interfere, at all, with the rudder. I through bolted the bracket side tangs with SS bolts and lock nuts instead of wood screws because the stern is so narrow. 

One other thing, I had a heck of a time stowing the rudder using the smallish black plastic centering block that comes with the kits. I am not flexible enough to turn my self around enough to see if the rudder is centered perfectly. So I replaced the plastic block with (2) 3/4" X 4" brass tangs bent to form a wider vee shape. Makes a much easier target when stowing the rudder. I'll post some pics if you are interested.  Dave

Thanks for the info Dave, It would be great if you could take some pics, maybe some close ups. I did notice that the shaft pin was too short to clear the rudder shaft and accept a cotter pin using the bracket. I was thinking of ways to secure it and it sounds like you have a pretty good setup. Thanks, Justin

http://www.clcboats.com/shop/products/boat-gear/kayak-footbraces-rudders/kayak-rudder-mount.html

After some angst I read this product description and realised I needed it to affix the rudder to my Chesapeake double.

The pin supplied would mean it would fall out, checked with CLL and apparently it's the only one they ship. They asked Feathercraft for me. Apparently the pin needed is longer and has a split pin at the bottom. It says it is for a single rudder but according to them so is the pin supplied by CLC with the double. Costs twenty something Canadian.

Justin,

here's a pic of the bungee rudder restraint. I haven't posted a pic on this site in awhile so here goes. Dave

Let's try that again. 

OK, 

I'm playing now, trying to get the size right. 

Heres a pic of the cable fairings. 

Thanks for the pics Dave, nice setup. I think I'll go the same route with the J hook and chordage to secure the rudder. I'm diggin your cable fairings! I just made some out of ceder but I like your design better. Nice looking boat!! Thanks again, Justin

Justin,

thanks for the comment. The fairing design isn't mine, but came from somewhere on this forum. Basically start with a 3/4 X 3/4 X 4 inch piece of wood (or whatever you want). Bore a hole through it. Cut the piece diagonally (I used a chop saw with a simple jig). Shape the two pieces to your liking. Pretty much foolproof, which is a big plus for me ;). Dave