Glassing a Kaholo 14

I just recieved and am beginning my Kaholo 14 kit build. In addition to the CLC manual I have read numerous builder suggestions regarding what surfaces might or might not need to be glassed.

Is there a straight forward way to determine what surfaces I should or should not glass as per the manual, or have most builder's stuck to CLC's guidelines with great results? What are the actual trade-offs of glassing or not glassing a particular surface? I understand "weight management" on a build is a combiination of a number of factors, not just the glass. Here are some specifics to my goals.

  • Build a board that matches CLC's specs of 32lbs
  • Have a board that may receive a day hatch with below-deck storage box
  • I am 135lbs but want to have a board that accomodates heavier capacity
  • Intend on using the board for a loooooong time as a fitness, touring and racing cruiser.

Thank you for the feedback!

Also on page 26 a sentence reads: "The "sheer edge of the"

What info, if any, is missing from there? 



6 replies:

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RE: Glassing a Kaholo 14

Good luck doing a 32# build. start thinking 40# . . .

do not glass the entire underside of deck. I glassed the part one will normally walk/stand on. If you can get 3 oz or even 2 oz cloth to glass the exterior that would save a few pounds. You'll still want to squeegee the epoxy well - glass should be wet out, not swimming in goo.

RE: Glassing a Kaholo 14

Go back to Oct 15.  I put Notes from Phase 1.  They may answer a lot of your questions but the primary answer is manage your wet epoxy well, e.g. don't over do it, squeegee epoxy out well from fully wetted cloth, clean up spills as best as possible and then buy lots of sandpaper.  You can try lots of tricks like only glassing where you stand, but clean work will probably get you the board you want.



RE: Glassing a Kaholo 14

I know this may sound overly simple....but I would just follow the directions.   In fact that is what I did and it turned out great.   Indeed - watching your epoxy usage is important.   But altering the plans or instructions to try to save weight probably isn't a great idea.   if CLC could have made it lighter without risking problems...than they would have done so.

Finished mine last year and loving it.

RE: Glassing a Kaholo 14

I suspect the 32lbs quoted is without a day hatch and fabric pints.

I used 85gsm ( about 2.7 oz in ye lde speak ) on my pax20 surfski and it is great. it not only wets out very easily, it only needed 1 fill coat. I'm not using it on my Kaholo build as it is more expensive and the Kaholo project started out as budget holiday project to use up leftover epoxy and ply.

I question the need for a day hatch. If the 32lbs has a higher priority then maybe consider dropping that feature off the list.

Given that you intend to use it for training, touring and racing, have you considered installing a finbox rather than the twin CLC setup? 

RE: Glassing a Kaholo 14

Thank you all for your responses to my initial question. I will continue to work clean and strcitly manage my epoxy application at all stages. I did run the sheer clamps all the way out to the nose to forego an ounce or 2 of the "block" supplied witht e kit. 

To your comment Craig regarding the fin box vs the original twin fin set up, I have gone back and forth, round and round on what route to take on this crucial feature. I have read opinions on the issue and my most recent thought was to stick with the twin--but I am open to hearing compelling reasoning for going with a single fin box as I intend to put in the miles, want to paddle open water and wish to have a board that will not be at a disadvantage because of the fin set up. 

I appreciate your and anyone else who has a take on this. Pros and cons.

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