chesapeake 17lt end pours

I have old plans, with no reference to using cardboard dams for end pours (Refuse to admit how long I've been working on this project).

I do not know where to place the dams to get the proper amount of epoxy for the end pours.  Can somebody get me that info?  Thanks.

10 replies:

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RE: chesapeake 17lt end pours

I built a 17 lt and dont remember the dimensions and am not at home I have them there so if yoou dont get an answer email me and I will look them up when I return home. I did have problems with the cardboard dams tho. I taped them in super tight with duct tape but when the epoxy got hot both dams gave way leaving me a mess. I suggest that you use a couple scraps of wood , cut hem to shape and use epoxy and glass tape to install them. I will do this on my next one. I went too the Annapolis boat show last year and asked the CLC representative about this and he said there is no reason not to do it this way.  By the way your finished boat will be terrific to  use.All my friends prefer it to the Three thousand dollar plastic ones. good luck with it . gary

RE: Chesapeake 17lt end pours

Heed what gary says.  That stuff will boil over too if added in large mass.



RE: chesapeake 17lt end pours

another question on end pours, can't you also use small amounts say 2 oz at a time to build up to the amount you need for the ends?

RE: chesapeake 17lt end pours

If you have a place protected from the wind, you can put the kayak on its bow or stern tip leaning against a wall (I actually strapped my shearwater to the a loose board on the inside wall of my garage).  THen use about 6-8 0z of epoxy and pour it in through the hatch after the deck is attached.  Much easier than making dams in my experience.

RE: chesapeake 17lt end pours

My advice is "as little as possible"...

I recently finished a C17 and for the bow ended up with a large end pour, covering from about 1" behind the curve at the base of the bow.  I didn't have microballoons so used filler powder and the bow is now extremely heavy.

Doesn't overly affect paddling, but digs into waves a bit, and makes it just that bit heavier to lift onto the car and carry.

Next time, I'll do a short end pour running parallel to the bow section, about 1" - 2" thick.  Just enough to strengthen the bow and for a handle to be drilled.

And as mentioned, best to do it a bit at a time.  The epoxy really heated up when I did a large pour, and a few layers will be just about as strong (perhaps dig out some grooves when nearly dry to assist adhesion).

Hope this helps.


RE: chesapeake 17lt end pours

Thanks to all for the replies.  I'm too much of a perfectionist and would screw up an actual "pour", so I'll just cut a little "bulkhead" from a scrap of okoume, keep the volume of the space on the low side, and add the epoxy in small batches.

I'm going to put a kerosene heater in the garage over the winter and finally get this thing done.

RE: chesapeake 17lt end pours

  Take  a look here : Dan does this :

   Much less epoxy ...aside from the cedar plugs... note the  clamps to keep the  dam in place  



RE: chesapeake 17lt end pours


re: "I'm going to put a kerosene heater in the garage over the winter and finally get this thing done."

I've heard that kerosene or propane heaters are not a good idea when one is working with epoxy -- something about the byproducts of combustion causing surface contamination that will prevent the epoxy from bonding....  so it may be a good idea to check into that first.

Julie K.

RE: chesapeake 17lt end pours

Saw that warning on another forum a while ago; thank you for the reminder.  I'll play it safe and use electric heat when dealing with epoxy, if it comes to that.

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