The great part about building your own boat is that you can customize it in whatever way works for you (for example, I moved the forward bulkhead back because I have short legs and wanted more storage in the forward compartment).

I also fully glassed both the inside and outside of my Shearwater and Wood Duck.  If you do this, you do not need to tape the inside seams because the glass cloth will perform the function of the tape by crossing the seams.  

I used 4 oz glass (with several layers on the bottom of the hull per the instructions), but many people who want a sturdier build use 6 oz.  I believe I've read that it's a little bit harder to work with, takes a little longer to wet out, and is not quite as flexible around corners, but it is definitely do-able.  Here is one discussion of different glass types I've found online:  http://www.metakrome.com/kayak/glass.html  There is also a good discussion of glass types and applications in The Strip-Built Sea Kayak by Nick Schade (pages 42 and 110 in my edition).  You might be able to get it at your library if you don't have a copy. 

Thank you kathy , 1layer of 6oz e glass all over and no tape , that would make it even more simpler, and Im likeing that. I think that might work well for me. hopefully it wont turn out too heavy, Im wasnt going to do fill coats on the inside , just leave it textured apart from the seat and feet area of course so It might help compesate for the heavier glass. by the way ive seen your blogs ( fantastic) people like yourself and wes and everyone else who goes to the trouble of shareing your builds online really need to be congratulated because there inspirational and so helpfull to people like myself.

I'm glad we can all be of help to each other.  I really appreciated all the builders blogs and the forum answers to my questions as I was building.  Sounds like you're having fun thinking through the process and how to modify it to get what you want out of the boat at the end. 

I have always put one very light fill coat on the inside fiberglass just to make sure the resin seals any pin holes that might still be there after the first coat of cloth/epoxy (alternatively you could do a very light seal coat before the cloth goes on - squeegee well).  I leave the weave ridges in the cockpit area to help with traction, but I usually put 2 coats of varnish in the cockpit in areas that are exposed to light to help with UV protection, so by the time I'm done with that there's not that much of the weave left anyway.

Have fun with your build and post photos so we can all see your boat (or links - I've never figured out how to embedd the photos in this forum for some reason). 

Hi Locky,

How's the build going? I've caught the wooden Kayak bug and was originally going to buy a kit and have it sent over from USA but am now considering the option of plans. Seeing that you have gone this route I would like to get in direct contact with you to discuss the pitfalls of doing this here in WA.

regards,  Wayne

Hi Wayne , the build is coming along slowley but surely. I didnt order a kit because of the cost of freight and import duties ect. So I went the plan option instead. I havnt finished my build yet so I could be speaking out of turn but I think its very dooable and so far its been every thing I hoped it would be , Rewarding, thearaputic and relaxing. Its surprising in the way that one dosnt really need that many tools, Now for the West Oz factor. You cant go wrong dealing with chesepeak , Ive bought and will be buying a few extras thru them and they have been a pleasure to deal with, the plans and instuctions are great. and Ive just bought a book on greenland paddles thru them and its great too. In perth though you cant go past boating hardware prosail in occoner ( freo way) speak too chris or marty .I tried heaps of other shops looking for glass and epoxy ect and no one else could really give me the time or day. Only tooo happy to chat with you direct so email me and swap phone no......

cheers Locky

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