WD10 hatch toggles

I'm getting closer to the fitting out stage of my 1st build, and have a question about the simple hatch toggles described in the manual. I don't believe there were locations for the toggles specified in the book or plans, and I'm wondering if people typically drill down through the hatch sill or just through the deck. Also, for those of you who've been using these types of toggles for some time, I'd like to know how this arrangement holds up. Is there any problem with wear and tear on the deck and hatch over time? I'm also paranoid about losing the hatch cover...probably because I haven't lived with one. I visualize it disappearing on the highway, for example. Being a perfect match with the deck it's irreplaceable! This probably belongs in the same category as my recent nightmare about the duck spontaneously unplanking itself, but I'd be interested in what others have to say nevertheless.


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RE: WD10 hatch toggles

:-) :-)

Attach a restraining line from the inside of the hatch to the inside of the boat and you won't lose the hatch.

That unplanking dream sounds straight from Gilligan's Island.

Laszlo

 

RE: WD10 hatch toggles

There's a picture on page 66 of the manual, which shows the screws 1/2 inch from the edge of the hatch opening. The screw will go through the deck and through the sill. 

Mine have a certain amount of bend in but seem pretty secure, though I haven't repeatedly turned them round. Here's a shot of the hatch (apologies for the gratuitous opportunity to post pictures of a beakerette). I'm going to use the hidden elastic method on my next one.

[img]http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6197/6114104466_5bdeb05396_z.jpg[/img]

RE: WD10 hatch toggles

When initally placing the toggles, make sure that they are far enough from the rim so that when they are open, the sides or back of the toggle doesn't partially cover the hatch. The "first" time I screwed the toggles on, I couldn't put the hatch on... 

Mike

 

RE: WD10 hatch toggles

  Here's an alternative I came up with, I call it the 'trunk release'. The link is to a recent build and the pics start on the bottom of the first page.  The cord loops are for attaching a tether. We did this with our first WD's, 10 and 12' hybrids, about 400 miles on the boats and no problems. Basicly a dowel penetrates the bulkhead and passes through a guide under the deck just forward of the hatch. This dowel fits a receiver mounted under the hatch.

RE: WD10 hatch toggles

They will scratch the deck when you turn them especialy in the salt water.

I went to Home Depot and got some plastic (delrin) washers and put them under the toggles so they turn clear of the deck. They are thin, but do the job.

 

Thanks

RE: WD10 hatch toggles

They will scratch the deck when you turn them especialy in the salt water.

I went to Home Depot and got some plastic (delrin) washers and put them under the toggles so they turn clear of the deck. They are thin, but do the job.

 

Thanks

RE: WD10 hatch toggles

Thanks all, this forum is so excellent and helpful: you all have never left me hanging!

 

dmnolan, I like your idea about the washers: I was suspecting just what you describe. Especially with the chance of sand and salt water working their way in between the toggle and the deck, I imagined a problem that washers might alleviate.

 

sskiff, another example of people's amazing, resourceful solutions to problems: now all you need is one of those cannister springs like those on the rear hatch of a car and you might start a new trend!

 

MRC, that sounds exactly like the sort of thing I might do...AARGH!

 

Beaker, thanks for pointing me back in the right direction. I'm a little concerned now that I ended up with a narrower hatch sill than planned because of overzealousness sanding (to better round a part no one but me will ever see!) but I'll get that sorted out soon enough, I'm sure LOL. Nice Duckling by the way! I like the paint scheme. I'm on flickr too, I'd love to see any more photos if you were willing to share :)

 

Laszlo you're always the voice of simplicity itself in my experience. I'll attach a little eyeloop to the bulkhead and an "oh jeez" line to the bottom of the hatch cover, that way I won't have to worry about chasing my hatch cover downstream every time I drop it when I'm reaching back for something! And by the way, I can't thank you enough for your photos of your WD12 build: I've spent so many hours poring over those and gotten so much comfort and reassurance from your calm pleasure and obvious enjoyment of the building process. I'd love to hear more from you about your experiences paddling the WD -here in Massachusetts, right? I'm also excitedly following your Bolger Sharpie build!

RE: WD10 hatch toggles

Hi alrotch, I've found this forum always has somebody that knows just how to fix the snags I came up against during the build, and inspires me to get a good finish, and get it on the water. 

There are more pics of the build on the songofthepaddle blogs here

http://www.songofthepaddle.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?30807-Wood-Duckling-build

RE: WD10 hatch toggles

alrotch,

Thank you so much for the kind words. I'm really happy that you found the build pages useful. Maryland's home for me, not Massachusetts (though I have visited your state a few time but not for paddling). There's a whole bunch of you who have asked about Duck paddling stories, I sense a new web page coming on, maybe later in the Summer.

The WD12 is a real joy to paddle. It's done everything I've ever asked it to except kite sailing and that was the kite's fault, not the boat's. It's handled bad weather better than I did, never dumped me into the water, shaken off wakes and waves and let me go to magical places. You're going to enjoy your WD10, I'm sure.

I've started up the Bolger build again (there's only 5 weekends left until Okoumefest) and once the dust settles I'll be posting more pics. I'm in the home stretch so there's going to be lots of dust as most of the work left to do is sanding.

So have fun,

Laszlo

 

 

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