It is more efficient, but might not be the most effective, depending on your level of experience working with epoxy and the type of epoxy you are using.  If your epoxy blushes (creates wax on its surface as it is curing) then you must clean the blush off before trying to attach anything else to that surface, or the second application of epoxy won't stick to the blushed surface.  Also, it is important to sand and then clean all areas of preapplied epoxy if you are going to bond to them.  Good luck.

Epoxy adhesion to cured epoxy is mechanical, which means wash the blush off with watewr, sand it with gritty grit (I favor 40 grit) and glue. 

Problem #2 - if you can coat the panels and stritch them up before the epoxy is fully cured, you might get away with it. S&G boats are designed to develop sweet curves when stitched, but epoxy coated panels are much stiffer and may not twist into design shape. Kaholo deck is flat, no problem there, but I never percoat hull panels that need to be shaped.

True, precoating flat unencumbered by frames and whatever is very tempting. You could get `er done that way if the epoxy is "green", and when green (not fully cured) the adhesion will be chemical, not mewchanical.

Larry,

when you thinned the epoxy for the inside what was the ratio of xylene to epoxy and where can you get xylene.  As I am doing a strip build with the kaholo (sides are done, working on the bottoms) I will be fiberglassing the inside as well.  Can I still thin the expoy with the fiberglass cloth.  As the wood is going to be thicker and with the extra fiberglass, I want to do everything I can to keep the weight down.  Thanks

Mike - Kelowna, B.C.