filleting the WD10


I have either 1.5 or 2" blue painters tape for taping off the inside of the hull before I begin my filleting.  My question (finally) is short and simple: How far apart should the peices of tape on either side of the seams be?  The manual doesn't seem to mention it and i'd rather it be strong and heavy than light and weak.  The manual has it as roughly a ~1" gap, but opinions oppreciated.  What worked for you and what didn't?  Tips and tricks appreciated!


Scott Carlson

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RE: filleting the WD10


 I've read in a few peoples blogs that the whole plastic bag with a hole doesn't work too well, it aparently inevitably squirts out the top or explodes.  Any suggestions for alternative methods that will that work?


 Scott Carlson

RE: filleting the WD10

1/2" to 3/4" in on each side is fine. By the time you drop the fillet down and smooth it out, there will not be much more/less if you do 3/4 over 1/2" on each side, so there is no strong/heavy vs. thin/weak. The strenght will come in the "v" being filled, then laying the glass over it anyways should flaten what extra filler you had in there anyways.  (Once your epoxy mix is almost set, you can roll the fiberglass tape on it to start the inside glassing job, so it will flaten out.)

I actually found the bag to be the fastest by far. Just use a big bag so you have lots of room in the top to push the epoxy down and then roll it up so it won't burst or squirt out. I found when i refilled it I just put the bag into a jar, and opened the bag up around the jar opening (like lining a garbage pail with a garbage bag). Dump more of the peanut-butter like epoxy in and then roll it back up so you can have it flow out the  cut in the bottom again.  I used a extra-large glad ziploc bag, so it was fairly strong plastic, which proably helped.

Here's my build progress:

 Part 3 is where I did the piping, so have some tips there.

 Good luck!

RE: filleting the WD10


I'm one of those guys who just can't get along with the pastry bag. I know it works really well for others, but for me it turns into a hot mess (I think it has something to do with being born north of latitude 47 degrees). My alternative is to spread it with a rounded putty knife. I also just skip the tape entirely. I've got a detailed description at my WD12 build page

noremacc is right that you don't have to worry about your fillets being too thin as long as they keep the glass from bending too sharply. My fillets usually don't even fill the gap between stitch holes and I have yet to have one fail.


(Click on the images to enlarge them.)

You might want to try the plastic bag on some scrap wood for practice. If it works, you're set. Otherwise, there's the putty knives.

Have fun,



RE: filleting the WD10

After two disasterous messes with the bag method, I tried something different with my last two boats: I bought empty caulking tubes at West Marine. They were $3 for two tubes. I filled them about 1/2 way with thickened epoxy and used a caulking gun to spread the mix. It left a nice even bead that I then spread with a cheap plastic kitchen spatula. The caulking gun also extended my reach into the ends of the boat. Drill a small hole in the plastic plug before you insert it into the tube to let air escape. The tubes can be easily cleaned with white vinegar and reused.

RE: filleting the WD10

While I haven't tried it, the caulking tube idea sounds great.

I have used the plastic bags with success. I just use a new bag rather than refill a dirty one. As with anything else when building these kayaks, it just takes some patience and it will be a time saver for you.

I've built 4 kayaks and I have found to apply the blue tape no more than 3/8" to 1/2" from the joint. As laszlo states, this doesn't even cover over the stitch hole, but that is OK. I used tape for all joints inside the cockpit where the filets will be visible. For areas inside the hatches and on the deck, you can forego the tape, although I like super neat filets in the hatches as well. On my first boat my filets were thick and messy but as I built more, I chose for a thinner more professional looking filet on all my joints. Good luck and have fun.

RE: filleting the WD10

For taping, I recommend using the widest tape you have and spacing it about 1/2 inch from the seam. A tongue depressor will give you an excellent minimum fillet where you can reach easily. Remember that the primary reason for the fillet is to provide a curve for the fiberglass cloth so you don't get air bubbles under the cloth at the seam. The fillets also seal the seam and fill the wire holes but don't add much strength. That comes from the cloth. -Wes

RE: filleting the WD10

Put the tape IN the bag and throw both away !!!!  I mixed the wood flower/epoxy, had my pre-radioused (Is that a word???) putty knife(plastic) and slopped it on.  OK, I carefully applied it but WITHOUT tape or bags.  Once on. by pressing down on the seam with the rounded fillet "tool, it made it's own edges.  A second "conventional" putty knife removed the edge excess.  VERY fast and efficent.  Once cured, a light sanding removed any epoxy film, of which there was VERY little..  I.m in Lazio's court.  Go for it and your filletts will be just fine...   ~BRUCE~

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