Okay, looks like nobody out there has a Chesapeake manual handy, so I guess my deck sequence will be: do butt joints, cut hatch holes and cockpit opening, apply glass, and build coaming.

 Everyone was out kayaking this weekend...

 I did butt joints, apply glass, build coaming, cut coaming and then cut hatch holes.

If you want to try to do flush hatch covers, applying the glass 1st is the way to go.  If you are going to use covers that are larger than the opening, it matters less.

Thank you stilljustseven. I wish I'd been out kayaking!

Can you elaborate please, about the advantage of glassing before cutting hatch holes when doing flush hatch covers?

One other question. When cutting the bow hatch hole where the deck is strongly cambered, I imagine the piece is going to start flattening out as it's released from its surrounding. Has anyone found a good strategy for that, or is it not a problem?

Thanks,

Grant

On the Chessies I've built, the butt joints were cut and the doublers were added as the decks were epoxied on.  Glassing the deck before cutting the hatch holes is just easier and more time efficient.  And the deck glass helps the hatch covers retain their curved shapes, though they still will want to flatten.  Before you cut the hatches out, cut cardboard templates to match the top curves of your hatches.  You can run tape or straps or use a vise or something to help hold the hatches' curves, checked with your template, while you decide and implement your hatch structure. Good luck.

What ootdb said.

Thank you folks. I appreciate your help. I've decided not to do flush hatches on this kayak, but might on my next one.

Grant

Do you really need to glass the deck? I didn't glass mine and have had no issues at all.