Silence fron the Yak-o-philes! Shame on these okume-thighboot wearers! Some of us like a little open space for, and sunshine upon, our... erm... bagages.

 I made a Sass16 from the plans in the Auld Book, so maybe my experience isn't comparable to the kit. But, that ne'er stopped me from... reckoning... stuff. 

And here's what I reckon: Given the symmetrical fore/aft/port/starb-whassit-ness of the design, I'd  reckon-mend doing whatever you settle on, on each and every strake. The most important thing is to make your boat straight, with the right amount of rocker.

Its waterline length, give-or-take a few millimetres, won't matter...

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The ideal scarf result would be hull panels that looked like they were cut out of a single piece of Okoume.  Ummm, riiight.  The next best thing, given what you have, is to make sure your epoxied-together panel pairs are the same shape and with fair edge curves, especially through the scarf joints.  Then you want the top and bottom sides of the epoxied-together panels to line up, no bumps that will need to be sanded.  Panels that are a tiny bit too long or short are okay as long as each panel of a pair is the same and their edges are fair with smooth curves.  What's really,really important when epoxying the scarf joints is to make sure the joints won't slide under clamping pressure.  It is a real bummer to come back to cured panels to find one has slid sideways 1/16".  Can be fixed once your jaw has been lifted off the floor.  Good luck.

Thanks guys. Just to be truthful, this is my third boat, first two are Ducks.

Looking forward to the Canoe for some fishing with my sons, or a tandem ride with the misses.

I think I am all set, the joints are tight (enough) and the curves match the prints.

Thanks for your input.

David