Thanks Bob

I ordered my epoxy and other materials from boatcraft, now I just have to source the ply, I think it will be a bit pricey, freight wise, ordering an 8x4 from Qld.

Thanks Again

Gazman 

Hi Gazman,

Im in Wonga Park

I have built a C17 and a Pax 20 I used West system Epoxys with slow hardners for both boats From Discount Seamart In Melbourne they had most of the deck gear too (shock cored etc.)

The ceder I had milled by Melville timer in Melbourne, The Ply you can get from Denman Marine Taz or Wooden Boat in Preston 0430 786240 I have also use Ply from plyco in Preston.

cheers

Steve

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42963592@N06/4043607429/

Thanks Steve

I'm in Bendigo

All materials ordered now, thanks to yourself and Bob. Just waiting now for it all to turn up. I will go to Melbourne to pick up the ply. I'm building a Wood Duck 10 for the other half, and a Chesapeake 17 for myself.

I had a look at your photo's, all looks great, I can't wait to do the same.

Regards

Gazman (Garry) 

I'm in Canberra, but I can second the recommendation of Botecote epoxy and Boatcraft for bits and pieces.

I got my Okoume ply shipped from Marine Timbers in Melbourne.  It was freighted carefully (packed in other decent ply, and arrived without a scratch or ding.) Not cheap, but not as expensive as I'd expected, and very good quality wood indeed.

Website says "under new management" so don't know what that will mean.

MARINE TIMBERS

www.marinetimbers.com.au

Co-incidentally, I rode my motorbike to Bendigo in November with my 11 year old son for a sports carnival he was running in.  800km each way, no windscreen, open face helmets, and constant flooding rain.  Well, the rain stopped now and again, and billions of fat locusts would appear, all aimed at my face!  Hard work, but we both had a blast and it was a real adventure for him. Did the slow route over the Alpine Way, Khancoban, slept in Wodonga, then the "Ned Kelly Trail" - Beechworth etc, then up through Benalla and Shepperton to Bendigo.  

Bendigo was a really nice place, I have to say. Had a couple of Gillies pies and took a bunch of photos of the cool old buildings.  Biggest church I've ever seen! I'll definitely be back. 

Thanks David

I did get onto Marine Timbers, I don't think they have Okoume Ply any more, they tried to sell a brand call Compass, I think its their own brand. I rang another mob Australian Wood Panels, they quoted $27.30 for imported BS1088 ply. Looks too cheap. Another option is Gaboon @ $59.14+ or Pacific Maple @ $32.50+. Any suggestions?

That aside, I received my first set of plans today, only 7 days ex USA, great service CLC..

Regards Gazman (Garry) 

Hi Garry

I'm fairly sure that "Okoume" and "Gaboon" are used interchangeably for the same stuff. 

 I undestand that China is shipping a lot of cheap Okoume ply these days, so that might be the $28 stuff you've seen. I've heard that it's not as good quality as the stuff coming from Norht Africa, Israel etc (which is probably the $59 stuff. Eiteher  is probably fine for your job, But I would personnaaal not take the risk with Chinese stuff I hadn't inspected before purchase.) . I used Israeli stuff and it was/is perfectly fine.

The really best stuff comes from Europe.  Denman Mariine sells Joubert brand (French stuff) for $79 for 4mm and $120 for 6mm. It is subbosed to be very high quality construction and best quality woods used.

If you want floating furniture, with the best possible brightwork, I'd spend the extra few bucks for the Joubert. Otherwise, any decent Okoume/Gaboon will do the trick, and the results will still be very impressive.

I don't know about pacific maple, sorry. I can't imagine it being better than Okoume, though.

Not sure if you've done any boat wood work before. If not, here's a few tips I learned the hard way:

The four things I'd never be without are my Japanese pull saw, shinto rasp, low-angle block plane and my hand (ie not electric) drill (for doing the billions of stitch holes).  I really hate power tools due to the mess and noise, and Okoume is so easy to work, you don't need them 95% of the time...

Always keep your plane blade razor sharp. If you haven't used one before, you-tube to learn proper technique for using and tuning the plane. Makes a huuuuge difference to speed, ease, and accuracy.

I went nuts trying to fine the right gauge copper wire at anything approaching a reasonable price in Australia. Then, I discovered ordinary yellow-and-green 7-strand earthing cable at the local electrical/lighting supplys place. Like a buck a metre or something, and one metre yields 7 metres of perfectly sized wire. Easy to strip the cover off too. Just be sure to get the 7-strand not the type with dozens of tiny strands.

Measure forty times, cut once!

Sounds like you are right on track  to get everything you need together! 

I am at the stitch part of my CH18, but have a few holdups as I want to make a few (well lot) of modifications and they need to be done now.

The whole point of building a 'yak is so that it fits you and what you want to do with it, so no sense sticking to the plans :) 

I got mine as a kit from here in Aus, but need to source some more 6mm ply locally so I can move forward with the build. 

I hope to have my modified CH18 ready to launch around Easter time. 

Hi Guys & Sheilas

I have stitched my hull together, and its looking good. The blokes that buy kits are missing out on the real skill of marking out plans, cutting, and doing the scarf joints. If I had not done that, I may have been in the water by now, (I do jest here). Wood Duck (for the cheese & kisses), then on to my CH17...

All the tips are coming in handy....

Regards Garry