I don't know anything about Gorilla glue.  But I do know that Titebond and Elmers glue is what Nick Schade uses on his kayaks.  That's good enough for me.

Gorrilla Glue expands as it dry's. Not a good idea as it will push the strips apart.

I understand the differences between how they glue and such and have used both on other projects but I'm interested in what happens later.  Does gorilla glue hold up better in heat or hotter than normal conditions? Can it withstand the stress of the flexing hull and repeated direct sun that may reach 110 to 120 deg on a hot summer day?

Heat will soften PVA glues like Titebond II or original. Not sure about Titebond III. Also not sure about what temp, but a heat gun can be used to break the bond. But once it's sandwiched in between 2 layers of glass and epoxy, I doubt it matters what kind of glue you used. You could probably use the kind of paste you used to eat in kindergarten!

Gorilla Glue may be good for something, but it's a PITA to use for woodworking because it's messy, takes forever to dry, foams like crazy, and is difficult to clean up.

Here's a good article from Fine Woodworking on glues:

http://www.titebond.com/Download/pdf/HowStrongisYourGlue_FWW.pdf

     In my shop I use Gorilla Glue for absolutely nothing, Ever !!!! It is the weakest glue, it brakes down from UV and heat and it makes a mess. Anything you glue with it will fail !! I prefer titebond II for general woodworking ,cabinets ect. Titebond III is no better than II and it has a much shorter shelf life. For all boat building or out door use I use Epoxy. For glueing I use West Systems (25 years) The pumps allow me to mix only what I need. For a super clear coat for laminateing I use Aerialite. For laminateing large project I use systems 3 silver tip. The silver tip does not blush so I don't need to sand between coats.

Question for the group...  I have used, and love Titebond III.  But never in an enviroment that included being "submerged" in water.  Comments please...   ~Tugbruce~

If you love titebond III, its good glue. Wood magazine has done test on glued joints go to their web sight and see if you can find the test titebond II, titebond III and epoxy were all close in the water resistance tests. The problem with the titebond is the cure time and the fact that the joints glued with it can creep. Also it takes a lot longer to reach full strength than you would expect. I have taken joint apart after 24 hours and the glue still wasn't fully cured. Epoxy on the other hand will cure completely in a few hours and is gap filling. I can pull my clamps sooner and move on to glueing more strips (strip planking) in just a couple hours. with the tite bonds I have to wait overnight before removeing clamps .

I use titebond original for strip building because that is what Nick Schade recomends in his books.

It is cheep. It is non toxic. And It sets fast.

All it needs to do is hold hold the strips together until you glass the hull. All the strength of the hull is in the glass, not the glue in between the strips.

I keep the air in my work shop very dry. The titebond will set in 5 to 10 min.  I can remove clamps in less than an hour.

In my experience a proper titebond glue joint is stronger than the wood.  I tried Gorilla glue once and can't imagine anyone buying a second bottle of that product.