Jeff,

I didn't use the thinner and got fantastic results using a 6" foam roller, tipping out with a 4" foam brush. I did my NE Dory and it looks like a sprayed on finish. The important thing is to keep a wet edge which was easy on the dory panels, just did one at a time so the width wasn't too excessive. It might be more of a problem on a boat with larger flat areas to cover. I would imagine a 5-10% mix would be all that you would need, the manufacturer's website says, "Add small increments, in accordance with individual product directions."  Sounds like you add just enough to keep a wet edge depending on temperature. By the way, I live in Florida where we always have humidity and I use ac to try to keep rh around 60%, temp around 75 when painting and varnishing. Never had a problem with either.

George K 

I second what George K said. I painted the hull of my Merganser that way, without thinning, in hot and humid weather, and got a beautiful finish that looks like it was sprayed. Brightside is very thin right out of the can and seems to shrink wrap itself as it cures over several days. I use 333 to clean off the last remnants of dust before applying paint or varnish, but not for thinning. -Wes

Thanks Lads!  I'm in Atlanta and right now my gauge shows 49% humidity.  It was not much more than that all day today and the Pre-Kote primer was a breeze to roll on.  Now that I know I can roll the first coat of Brightsides on un-thinned, I'm excited.  My launch date is Father's Day and I have to get 3 coats of paint on the hull and then about 5 coats of varnish on the deck.  I think I'm going to make it unless the rain returns.

First coat is on.  I rolled it on pretty thin and thin tipped it with a foam brush.  I plan to apply three coats.  I'll wet sand between coats one and two.

I hope I am applying this paint correctly

Another question:

How long before I sand and add a second coat?

Jeff,

Wait 24 hours before sanding. Are you applying the paint accross the width of the boat or down the length? Looks like accross from the pic. You should really be going the length if you're not. It looks like the same blue as my Dory but I only needed two coats. I used the gray primer, yours looks like the white one. Might take three coats.

Keep us posted!

George K

I would wait 24 hrs between coats. I thinned 10% with 333 and found that thinning with 333 made it flow well but decreased the dry time due to evaporation. If you roll and tip you may have better luck without thinning. You really need to work fast, no more than an 18"-24" section at a time. Try to do the bottom first and then each side separately. That way the overlap will be on the bottom radius and you will not see it.

Thanks Guys.  George, I actually applied down the length and did the bottom first.  I painted each side the same way.  As Dana suggested, I worked on about 18-24" segments.  I think what you are seeing is where the lengthwise strokes overlapped.  I hope the second coat starts to cover those overlap areas.

BTW, Dana, I am using dark blue. 

Hey Guys,

The ol' Earl Scheib is coming along nicely.  I finished the second coat around 8am today.  I still need to apply a third and due to the white Pre-Kote a fourth coat.  so, I'm looking at a Friday completion date for paint.  Then it's varnish on the deck and rigging. 

After the paint is finished, are there some tricks to get a really glossy, wet looking shine?  I used 320 wet paper after the first coat.  I also have 400 and 600 grit wet paper that I plan to use after this coat.  Do you guys rub anything onto the finished paint?

>>After the paint is finished, are there some tricks to get a really glossy, wet looking shine? 

Put the boat in the water :-)

Laszlo

That is why I asked the experts!

" >>After the paint is finished, are there some tricks to get a really glossy, wet looking shine? 

Put the boat in the water :-)

Laszlo"

Third coat is on and it may be the final coat!  After the first two, I was not convinced that three coats would do it.  I still have an entire unopened can so I guess I need to build another.  I hope I don't have any trouble removing the tape on the rubrails

Looks good!!  I'm at the point in my Eastport Pram build where I'm finished sanding the epoxy coats, and ready to paint the outside and varnish the inside.  I've been contemplating which I do first (paint or varnish).  Guess I'll take your lead and paint the exterior first.....

"I've been contemplating which I do first (paint or varnish).  Guess I'll take your lead and paint the exterior first....."

Hmm.  Seems like a lot of people here do paint first.  Not sure about their reasons.  My inclination is to get the varnish on before I have a chance to get paint on bare wood where I don't want it.  And if there's a varnish-paint line, I don't need to mask it until I start overlapping paint along the edge of the varnish.  What am I missing?

Grant

The only reason I did paint first is because all those trail blazers before me have done it that way.  I used a lot of blue masking tape on the rubrails.

I'll be flipping the boat over tomorrow.  I may need to sand the deck a little more, but the plan is to get a coat of varnish on.  Tonight, I tested the Schooner varnish.  I applied it with a foam brush and it went on with ease.  It also looks good with the dark blue hull paint.

I believe in varnishing first for the reason Grant mentions. Once the wood sucks up the paint you have a lot of sanding to do to get rid of the evidence. If it's already varnished, no big deal, wipe off and light sand if necessary. Of course several rolls of blue painter's tape works, too!

George K

Grant, you and George are very wise men.  This morning, I flipped the boat over and started removing the tape on the rubrails.  As I walked around the boat, I was shocked to see a large run right across the port side deck.  Some 220 paper and Interlux 333 took care of it.  I think the paint definitely does not stick well to epoxy and I didn't have much trouble removing it, but next time, I will varnish first.  I should have taken a picture, but my cleanup mode kicked in too quickly.

This boat still has a very good chance of making the water before June 22.  We are headed up to the lake on June 18-22.  I plan to have at least 4 coats of varnish on by Thursday.  I will still need to add the straps for the hatches before going into the water. Nothing could go wrong...right?

Pictures from this morning.  Through a camera lens, some glare and then uploaded, downloaded and transmitted over the internet, it looks pretty good:)