Joe,

Not sure that my plans had a specific length, but I dammed my bow slightly after the low part of the seam, that ensured that the entire bow structure would be solid.  I used a similar measure on the aft end.

Another consideration I used was where my bottom seams were... I had about 2" of wood beyond a scarf seam and I ensured my pour covered those for extra strength.

Good luck; hopefully someone with more expertise will weigh in,

Larry

Joe, first check your plans.  My main objective was just to make sure there was enough good "meat" to drill the toggle handle holes through, and my CH 17LT plans don't show much more than that.

It sounds like some people like substantial end pours to make them super durable.  But I figure if I hit something really hard, a boat this light will get damaged.  If I had a giant end pour, the damage would probably just get transferred further aft in the boat.  So I think of my somewhat fragile bow like the "crumple zone" of an car body.  It will dissipate the energy of a collision so damage to the rest of the boat is reduced.  Or doesn't that make any sense?  :-)

Grant

Joe,

Keep the end pours as short as you can while still accomp0lishing the following:

Have enough meat to drill for your tobble lines or to screw down a padeye.

Seal all the areas way down in the fore-foot (and aft) where it was difficult to get a good filletting and taping job.

When you think damage protection, think dropping one end of the boat on concrete.

Add epoxy slowly.  when it kicks off there will be lots of smoke and bubbling if the quantity is to large.  I put my last ours in in three batches.

Good luck.

Paul

Thanks for y'all's advice.  I ended up doing the pours last night around midnight.  I have a very strict time restriction so I just did the pours all at once.  

Paul it happened just like you predicted.  Smoke and bubbles and lots and lots of heat.  However this morning it looked like both pours had cured well and I just finished putting on the deck.

I forgot to mention.  The bow pour ended up being about 4 inches long, the stern pour a little less.  But both of them really filled up that area that's hard to reach when filleting so I think it'll work.

Another option for the more weight conscious is to carve a block of wood to the approximate shape and then bed it in thickened epoxy.  I did that for my WD12.  Got the idea from Lazslo.  Since I am going with a pad-eye top mounted handle, I went the route of back plating that is wide enough to the be filleted to the hull.  A definite advantage of the extra beam :-D http://morocz.com/BoatBuilding/DuckBuild3.htm