Re: coaming process

Posted by Dave Houser on Mar 9, 2007

It is quicker just to do the coaming in one glue up but I tire of sanding and take the extra time to make the coaming in several glue sessions. I end up with much better looking caomings by doing it in steps.

I build S&G's from plans or offsets so I approach the coaming differently than many but my approach will have advantages to the plywood kit builders. I make the spacers and the overhang pieces a little oversized i.e. wider in both directions. Kit builders just have to worry about alignment a little more with cut to size pieces.

1- Glass the deck and apply all of the fill coats. Cure and 80 grit sand. Do any additional fill coats sand to 220 at least around the coaming. Sanding the deck around the coaming is a pain. So do it before the coaming. 2- Cut an undersized cockpit hole 3- Cover the deck full width with plastic or packing tape to a foot in front and in back of the finished cockpit location. Cut the plastic to match the hole and protect the cockpit bottom with plastic. 4- Glue the spacers together on the deck no more than two at a time. 5- When all of the spacers are glued but the overhang is not attached, remove the spacers and cut and sand the outside only. 6- Reinstall the spacers on the plastic and glue on the overhang. Remove the horse collar and use a compass to mark the � inch overhang. Cut the outside of the overhang. 7- Glass the underside of the overhang and the finished face of the spacers with the horse collar off the boat. 8- Fill coat and sand the glass. 9- Remove the plastic from the deck and glue the horse collar on the deck. 10- Cut, shape and sand the inside face of the coaming and kneebrace. 11- Glass the top and inside face of the coaming. 12- Fill coat and sand the glass.

In Response to: Re: coaming process by Doug W. on Mar 9, 2007

Replies:

• Knee Braces by Dave Houser on Mar 9, 2007
  • Re: Knee Braces by Gordon Barton on Mar 12, 2007