my assumption is wrong

Posted by LeeG on Sep 28, 2006

I could see that would be a reasonable way to address tech call problems.

I'm not saying a plug of solid epoxy in the ends isn't useful. I'm saying that the size of the plug will be determined by the sheerclamp set-back. Like a pyramid every inch greater at the base(interior face) of the endpour increases volume significantly.

On my first Ch16 I made it was obvious the size of the endpour would be huge to fill that gap. It's not necessary to have that big of an endpour for a through hull grab toggle or strength so on subsequent constructions I reverted back to a shorter set back with bevel cut so that I could make a small dam and bring the 3" tape up the ends, filling the dam with epoxy from the filleting mess. In retrospect the old way of just pouring a few oz of goop down the ends works fine,,but not if it's a medium cure epoxy as Chris is working with. Then using small amounts with the deck open is worthwile,,and not making the endpour larger than necessary.

If you drop a kayak on the concrete it'll hit the forefoot where there isn't any endpour. If you swing a kayak around and it whacks a concrete wall on the tip the damage will be what the glassed tip can handle. With or without endpours the damage will be chipped plywood. With a well rounded end the damage will be a function of the thickness of the glass covering and not any endpour. That's why the A.Hawk has layers of light glass built up on the ends. If the deck of a Chesapeake has 4oz glass and a sharp bow and someone walks into a brick wall with it the plywood would crack and peel depending on the angle it hits. If the end was rounded and glassed with a couple layers of 4oz right at the tip there will be no damage to the underlying plywood. End pour will do nothing to protect the 4mm plywood that's covered with 4oz glass on the deck/edge.

In Response to: Re: been going on for yea by CLC on Sep 28, 2006



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