Builders' Forum Archives
Posted by CLC on Apr 1, 2005
Duane Strosaker expressed it very neatly, pasted below for emphasis. Substitute "saber saw" or "bonsai saw" for "razor," however.
>>>>>>>>>>> It is easy to fix. Now or after your trip, use a razor to cut through the epoxy in the seam of the hollow area. Use a few small wedges of wood to spread the seam area of the hollow so that it smooths out. Then fill in the gap in the seam with some thickened epoxy. The fiberglass you add later on the outside and inside will reinforce it.
I have performed "de-humps" on a half-dozen stitch-and-glue kayaks. It was a straightforward procedure. After sanding, no trace of the procedure was visible even in a varnished hull.
I'm fond of remarking that "The great thing about S&G is that you don't have to build a mold. The bad thing about S&G is that you don't have a mold..." Moldless boats made of really thin plywood are susceptible to random unfairness, especially in the keel line, which has such a long, shallow curve.
FORTUNATELY, you can avoid the problem easily: before you mix glue to do the interior fillets on your kayak, spend some time eyeballing the wire-up hull. Poke and prod at it until you're satisfied with the "fairness" of the keel.
It's true that a few humps and bumps won't do a thing to performance unless you're sprinting all the time. (Sight the keel lines on some of the Inuit skin boats in the Smithsonian Museum of Natural History.) But mounted atop a car for transport, that keel line is right at eye level...
In Response to: Re: Major Screw Up? by Duane Strosaker on Apr 1, 2005