Builders' Forum Archives
Re: installing deck on Ch
Posted by LeeG on Jan 7, 2005
the most significant contribution light 4oz deck glass provides is a harder surface against dings and whacking on the sheer. When plywood is rounded over there's a middle veneer with all those open tubes ready to soak up epoxy,,,or water. So cutting off the glass before the roundover would eliminate one of the more valuable places to have deck glass,,where the sheer can bang on things like during the most basic of all rescues, a T-rescue. With an unglassed edge of plywood you can ding through a sealing layer of epoxy allowing water to migrate much farther into the 4mm ply than a ding on the flat surface of the wood. Since it's easy to sand through edges of wood,epoxy and glass when you apply fill coats apply two more along the sheer. If you use a roller for the fill coats all it takes is running it up and around lightly. If the fill coats on the roundover are the same thickness as what's on the middle of the deck i'll gurantee after sanding you'll be sanding into the glass. The edge of the sheer right above where your foot rests is an area that will get 1000's of inadvertent paddle whacks,rolling a little extra there isn't a bad idea. After rolling come back with a 2" brush and GENTLY brush out any bubbles. Wrapping deck glass over the sides is necessary in kayaks that don't have sheerclamps but isn't structurally necessary for your Chesapeake. The reason for the " 1"-2" overlap" is because that's what you'll get if you walk around with a pair of scissors cutting the edge of the glass by eye. If you're good with a ROS and 80grit you can come back to sand/feather the straggly mess left behind. Or,,if you use the tape as suggested you have a neat distinct line that can be scraped fair..OR if you put the tape up close the roundover about 3/16" below it,,you can fair in the cut glass with a utility knife because you can get the knife to a closer angle to the hull.
In Response to: Re: installing deck on Ch by Karl on Jan 7, 2005