Builders' Forum Archives
Re: Surf Advice Wanted
Posted by Laszlo on Jul 22, 2004
Don wrote - "Have fun"
This is fun? That's even weirder than paddle-boarding :-)
I grew up on the beach in San Diego and spent more time in the surf than I can remember. I spent so many hours body-surfing that I was accused of being part seal. But the idea of riding a wave with my legs sticking out in front of me wrapped in wood gives me the willies.
Each to their own, I guess. Anyway, Don's advice to wait out the passing of the wave before attempting recovery is excellent advice. Most of the people I saw get into trouble in the surf were making the mistake of attempting to fight the ocean. It's not gonna work, it's bigger than you are.
Another thing to keep in mind is the rhythm of the waves. Spend at least 10 - 20 minutes just looking at the waves before you get into them. Get a feel for the pattern, how and when they break, how they group, etc. Be on the lookout for signs of rip tides and undertows. If the waves are at an angle to the shore or a picking up mud, go somewhere else to play.
In Response to: Re: Surf Advice Wanted by Don on Jul 22, 2004