Re: deck lines

Posted by Dave Houser on Jun 25, 2004

I rigged my Ches 17 after looking a many kayaks including commercial boats, books and websites. First consideration is where and how you are going to paddle.

If you are going into open water the minimum recommendation is non-stretch: perimeter lines to facilitate assisted rescues and to keep your boat from getting away in a windy, wet exit; bungies behind the cockpit (using the common hourglass pattern) for paddle-float self rescues; bungies on the rear deck for a two-piece spare paddle; toggle handles to capture a boat during wet exits in surf; a bow line with a loop in the end within easy reach of the cockpit for quick attachment of a thrown rope for rescue tows out of surf or rock gardens, and bungies in front of the cockpit for charts, water bottles, hand pump, etc. I also added bungies near the bow for a paddle park (with a bead around one cord, or a knot, to assist in getting the paddle blade under the bungie).

Some guys add cleats near the coaming to secure towlines. Towlines all should have quick-clip carabiners and the cleats are knuckle bangers while paddling so I left them off.

I also have a very tipsy low volume kayak (a Yare) that I use for bay paddling that does not have any rigging except toggle handles. I am always within swimming distance of shore in that boat.

The amount of rigging depends on use too much is safer than too little. So rig for your maximum use condition.

The CLC method of screwing through webbing into the shear clamps is probably the quickest and easiest way to make attachments. You can also by plastic rigging clips from kayak shops and suppliers and use screws through the deck with a backing block glued to the under side of the deck. You can also just drill undersized holes through the deck and force the line through. I used the Joe Greenley soft pad eye method.


CLC Rigging

In Response to: deck lines by Jay Touger on Jun 24, 2004

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